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Le Cantine Surrau

text Antonella Brianda
photo cover: Le Cantine Surrau

September 9, 2024

Fall in Sardinia: 5 things you absolutely must do

Unique landscapes, excellent products and many nature-based activities

When temperatures start to drop and become more pleasant, it is the right time to go exploring Sardinia. Beyond its snow-white beaches characterized by crystal-clear waters of a thousand shades of blue, just a few kilometers from the coast the island hides a scenic, historical, cultural and gastronomic heritage that deserves to be discovered.

  • Autumn in Barbagia

The fall season is the perfect one to delve into its hinterland and be enchanted by the urban centers of Barbagia, in the beating heart of Sardinia. Until December 15, the appointment with Autunno in Barbagia, an event that accompanies visitors to discover the 'heart' of Sardinia on a journey through traditions, culture and gastronomy, is an unmissable event that reaches its 24th edition this year. Thirty-two towns in the Barbagia region are involved and open their doors to visitors showing their historical and artistic heritage, local customs and traditions. The “cortes,” or courtyards of typical Sardinian houses, become open to visitors and welcome tourists, accompanying them on a true experiential journey. It will be the most authentic flavors, the secrets of craftsmanship and the charm of history that will enchant visitors. It starts from Bitti during the weekend of Sept. 7 and 8 and concludes with Orune and Ortueri on Dec. 14 and 15. The other towns involved are: Oliena (Sept. 14-15); Austis and Sarule (Sept. 21-22); Dorgali, Lollove and Orani (Sept. 28-29); Lula, Meana Sardo and Orotelli (Oct. 5-6); Gavoi, Onanì and Tonara (Oct. 12-13); Belvì, Orgosolo and Sorgono (Oct. 19-20); Aritzo and Ottana (Oct. 26-27); Desulo and Mamoiada (Nov. 1-3); Ovodda and Olzai (Nov. 9-10); Nuoro and Tiana (Nov. 16-17); Atzara, Lodine and Ollolai (Nov. 23-24); Gadoni and Oniferi (Nov. 30-Dec. 3); and Fonni (Dec. 7-8).

The Gennargentu Massif

  • Autumn in Sardinia, the magic of the grape harvest

In autumn it is harvest time, and Sardinia, from north to south, boasts a renowned production of wines with DOP and DOCG labels. All along the island, the wine roads that crisscross it offer the opportunity to get to know enchanting corners of the countryside and to taste wines that are sought after all over the world. Autumn is the best time to do this.

It is undoubtedly one of the symbols of Sardinia: Cannonau, a wine as strong and distinct in character as the land that produces it, is a special variety of slow-ripening vine known as grenache from which comes a wine rich in natural antioxidants, intense in color and with aromas of raspberry and strawberry. Although it is grown throughout the island, this grape variety has its true home in the southeastern part of the island from the coast of Orosei to Bari Sardo, to the hinterland around the provinces of Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari. Crossing Sardinia driving along State Road 131 it is possible to feel surrounded by vines, mostly cannonau precisely, but not only.

Because if the well-known red wine immediately evokes its land of origin, when talking about Vermentino it is Gallura that immediately comes to mind, in a perfect combination. Here Vermentino has the DOCG seal of quality: a symbolic wine of the territory overlooking the island's northeastern coast, Vermentino will be celebrated from October 7 to 13, 2024, in the beautiful city of Olbia in northern Sardinia, where the 2024 edition of Benvenuto Vermentino will be held. The absolute protagonist of a festival that combines food and wine, art, music and culture, Vermentino will be at the center of the event hosted in the historic center of the Gallura city. It will be the perfect opportunity to learn about Vermentino di Gallura, which boasts five DOCG designations, a fresh, light and fragrant wine. The event will include tastings, conferences and cultural events to promote the wine on a national and international scale. Olbia's calendar of events is packed:

  • Shopping & Vermentino: participating businesses offer their customers Vermentino offered by the Consorzio di Tutela del Vermentino di Gallura DOCG;

  • Apericena & Vermentino: participating restaurants, bars and hotels offer Vermentino-themed menus and/or aperitifs;

  • Vermentino Shopping Night: participating businesses offer their customers Vermentino offered by the Consorzio di Tutela del Vermentino di Gallura DOCG;

  • Shows, Tastings and Events: the entire week includes a rich and articulated program of shows, cultural manifestations and events;

  • Business Meetings to Support Export: B2B meetings between local Wineries and domestic and foreign buyers and importers;

  • Guided Technical Tasting: tasting of the best “Vermentini di Gallura DOCG” from Sardinia, Liguria, Tuscany, Corsica and other international labels presented by A.I.S. Gallura sommeliers;

  • Winery Experiences: guided tours for wine lovers with tasting of Vermentino di Gallura DOCG and typical local products directly from the producer (reservation required).

Le Cantine Surrau

  • Visit to the islands of La Maddalena and Asinara Island in the Fall

In northern Sardinia, two islands within an island have always fascinated tourists and visitors: we are talking about the island of La Maddalena and its archipelago and the island of Asinara.

The island of La Maddalena is part of the I borghi più belli d'Italia circuit and many of its beaches have been awarded the Blue Flag for environmental quality. The ferry between the main island and La Maddalena sails from the small port of Palau, a few kilometers from Porto Cervo, along the northeastern Sardinian coast. Just a twenty-minute crossing and you disembark on an island with an ancient flavor, a place of historical and scenic interest, included within the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park. The entire area and a protected marine and terrestrial area of national and community interest. The archipelago is known for being the last home of the Hero of Two Worlds Giuseppe Garibaldi, who built, in Caprera the famous White House, now converted into a house museum open to public visits. At the site it is possible to visit the tomb where the General, a symbolic figure of the Italian Risorgimento, rests. La Maddalena is also renowned for its picturesque beaches, such as Spiaggia Rosa, a beach with maximum environmental protection located in the northwest of the Archipelago on the island of Budelli, famous for being the set of Michelangelo Antonioni's film Il deserto rosso. La Maddalena has no shortage of culture as well as good food: all its characteristic restaurants, many of them overlooking the sea, offer traditional cuisine based mainly on fresh, zero-kilometer catch.

Moving instead to the northwestern side of Sardinia, reaching Stintino or Porto Torres, it is possible to reach Asinara Island. Wild and unspoiled, with very few human and urban settlements, this island is a former penal colony and has now become an uninhabited nature reserve, ideal for cycling or hiking among nature and old buildings used as prisons. Those who disembark here find themselves immersed in unspoiled and authentic nature, where time seems almost to have stopped. Asinara Island is home to a Sea Turtle Recovery Center open to the public. Among its highlights, in addition to beaches such as Cala dei Detenuti, are the ancient buildings of the Royal Palace and the Castle. To leave everyone fascinated and amazed, however, will be the true masters of the island, its inhabitants, namely the albino donkeys. Animals whose species is rare and protected, these donkeys with tawny and white fur give evocative and exciting encounters. The island can be visited through organized off-road vehicle tours or through hiking and biking trails. There are also numerous tours by sea over barges or with catamaran rentals.

Isola dell'Asinara

  • Relaxation and wellness in the ancient hot springs of Fordongianus

For those who want to learn about the history of Sardinia and yet also experience moments of relaxation, in the province of Oristano it is possible to visit the Fordongianus Thermal Center, in the central-western part of the island. Autumn is the best time of year here to relax in the spa made possible by the thermal water springs that gush from the volcanic bank below at 54 degrees all year round. Near the modern spa are the remains of the oldest and most impressive Roman baths, one of the most important archaeological sites in Sardinia, located on the left bank of the Tirso River.

Terme di Fordongianus

  • The mountain just a few kilometers from the coast: Vallicciola

For those who want to stay in the north of the island but explore its forests and mountains, the half of Vallicciola in the municipal territory of Tempio Pausania on Mount Limbara is perfect for immersing oneself in nature. Just a few kilometers from the Gallura coast, in what is called the Alta Gallura area, at an elevation of 1056 meters above sea level, lies this locality characterized by an extensive park with a predominance of conifers, fenced by wooden fences and beautiful specimens of sequoias. Explanatory signs and markers inform about the various routes, which branch off from here, and the vegetation and fauna of the area. There are various accommodations here: a bar, a hotel, a small playground for children, a fountain, and several picnic tables. Just upstream is the firefighting heliport. Then there are four forest houses, built in the early 1930s. A small shrine with a statuette of the Madonna, the site of the annual mid-August festival dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow, makes a visit to the locality even more atmospheric. Vallicciola is easily reached thanks to SP51.

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