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San Pantaleo

text Antonella Brianda
photo Dario Garofalo

July 17, 2024

San Pantaleo, an itinerary to discover one of the most beautiful villages in Gallura

What to do, visit and where to eat

The tradition and culture of Gallura - with its typical farmsteads and one-storey buildings, the distinctive pale granite that predominates in its architecture and the ubiquitous potted plants decorating windowsills and doorsteps - meets sophisticated cosmopolitan style. Borgo di San Pantaleo, just 15 kilometres from Porto Cervo, is the perfect blend of authentic beauty and elegance. It is perhaps this, along with its proximity to Sardinia’s north-eastern coast and the village’s location among rocks smoothed by the Mistral, that make this one of the best-known destinations on the island. Frequented by celebrities from all over the world, its narrow streets have a distinctly worldly air and a charming simplicity. Golden hour is when many people come together in the little square outside the church.

San Pantaleo

The church bells are the signal for aperitifs at sunset, enjoyed nearly always at the tables of Caffè Nina on the square; combined with the colours of the oleanders that adorn every corner and the soft evening light, they provide the soundtrack for unforgettable moments. Equally memorable is the food created by the chef of Ristorante Giagoni in Piazza, who reinterprets traditional Sardinian dishes. San Pantaleo’s cool, trendy mood is closely linked to its boutiques: there are no famous brands here, but an almost natural selection of delightful shops selling beautifully made clothes, some with eastern influences, like Foresta G in Via Torres, just off the square.

San Pantaleo

In the same street there’s the Yashu e Prem boutique, whose unique, original garments are worn by many habitués of the village. In San Pantaleo fashion, craftsmanship and art are in intimate dialogue with their surroundings, and a group of local artisans produce highly sought-after items in basic materials such as wood, wrought iron, ceramic and terracotta. The Solinas brothers are renowned for their ironwork, on display in the Bottega del Ferro; there’s also the workshop of Tonino Dettori, a maestro of wood, who’s famous for his carved chests. Petra Sarda’s ceramics are also unmissable.

San Pantaleo

And in the heart of the village stands the home of a well-known Sardinian artist and honorary son of San Pantaleo, Nicola Filia. The sculptor decided to open his studio here, and his works can be seen in his windows. But if you raise your eyes above San Pantaleo’s low-lying buildings, you can marvel at another artwork - that made by Mother Nature using the granite rocks that frame the village.

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